By this stage getting up at between 4 and 5am was becoming a habit. Our camp was a hive of activity as various sleep deprived zombies lurched back and forth tripping over cane toads, stuffing random belongings into equally random bags and in at least one case giving a highly inappropriate greeting to a large huntsman they discovered in the shower block (guess who). Eventually the bulk of our possessions and camping equipment were hurled onto the truck after which the same courtesy was displayed to us.
The tour leaders pointed the nose of the truck Broomeward but before we fled the region completely we paused at a crack in a limestone outcrop to see what we could find. Mimbi Caves is what we found although in keeping with historical tradition we didn't so much find it as turn up in the general vicinity to find an indigenous person waiting for us. Her name was Rosemary and she was there to guide us, chat to us and (perhaps most importantly) feed us damper and tea once we were done pawing her limestone.
Firstly we were instructed to rub a small pebble under our armpit and toss it into the creek. This was so the Rainbow Serpent would get our scent and thereafter we would be able to bathe on the tribal lands without fear as the serpent would reccognise us. This was a relief to me as being savaged to death by a legendary indigenous creation spirit was definitely not covered by my travel insurance. Rosemary made no guarantees that the same trick would work on crocodiles.
Then, spirits assuaged, she guided us into the caves. I love a cave and this one was no exception. We followed Rosemary deeper into the cavern. I noticed various side tunnels twisting off and it occurred to me that all she would need to do is step around a corner and the lot of us would be hopelessly lost. With such cheery thoughts ringing in my head I admired the Aboriginal art on the walls and eased my way through the stalagmites and tites that seem to have been designed to make caves look eerily picturesque.
We came to a beautiful pool of translucent green water partially lit by the sun coming through cracks in the roof. We oohed and aahed appropriately and Rosemary noted that we could have bathed there (after all the Rainbow Serpent knows us now) but we had brought swimming gear. Once person was concerned the area was sacred to the local people. Rosemary just laughed and told us she wasn't taking us to the sacred bits. Good luck trying to find them without her wasn't actually said but strongly implied. Since I doubt if we would have even been able to find the exit without Rosemary's guidance I was quite happy to simply look at what she wanted us to see.
"What do you think that rock formation looks like?" asked Rosemary indicating a significantly shaped chunk of limestone. I peered, "Wallaby," I suggested uncertainly. Rosemary stared, then laughed, then directed my gaze to the actual limestone formation she was indicating. It looked, well it looked like a chunk of limestone but if you tilted your head slightly there was a definite resemblance to a heavily pregnant woman. This was a place where women who were having trouble conceiving would come to seek the assistance of the spirits. Apparently it works. At least none of the female members of the tour group were prepared to take the risk.
After the visit to the pre-natal clinic we returned to the outside world and had tea (or coffee) and damper which was delicious.
No comments:
Post a Comment